2/24/2024 0 Comments Lazlo's Running BlogLatest Studio News - February 2024 I've acquired some new toys since my last update. :) In March of 2023, I purchased an ASM Hydrosynth Desktop Module. It has a completely different sonic flavor than everything else in my room - which is great. It took some time to "grok" the thing, but now I'm getting some really nice sounds out of it. It can be really quite gnarly which is a great addition to my sonic palate. It still has a few minor bugs, but nothing that's a deal killer for me. I quite like it. In November of 2023, I snagged a perfect condition 1010 Blackbox, mostly with the intent to use it as a sample player for live gigs. I'm hoping to have enough material to start playing out in 2024. I've been mixing some original material and a few remixes - my favorite being a deep house remix of King Crimson's Elephant Talk - into my DJ sets. Youngsters have no idea that it is, and older prog fans are gobsmacked... LOL Just a few days after I bought the Blackbox, Korg dropped the price on their 2600m to a price point I couldn't resist. So I snagged one. I think they sold out in two days... I have a love/hate relationship with 2600s. In 1979, I worked for Jean-Luc Ponty. One of my jobs was as Allan Zavod's (RIP) synth programmer. His lead instrument was an Arp 2600. It sounded lovely (when it worked), and he played it with such great finesse. Allan really was a lovely guy, one of the funniest people I've ever known, and a spectacularly gifted musician. But Arp 2600s were not built for the road. The were built as educational tools and for studio use. The thing was so totally unreliable and required work every single stop on the tour. It's oscillator tracking calibration was all over the place. Then again, I didn't buy ine to take out of the studio and, thus far, it's been great. Really does sound like a vintage 2600, but takes up less space which was most welcome as I don't have room for another large synth. And then, just a few days later, my long awaited Cirklon V2 became available. I'd been on the waiting list since October of 2019. I'd found a great condition used V1 in late 2020 and have gotten pretty good on the thing. The V2 is quite a bit more capable than the V1, and there are plans to expand its capabilities even more. I sold my V1 in one day after placing a local add. The price difference was minimal and way less than it would have cost me to purchase the Cirklon V1 to V2 upgrade which just became available last week (and which I'll pass on to the buyer if he wants it). The most consequential and most used new gear I've acquired since my last post is a pair of Slate VSX headphones. TBH, I thought they were a gimmick; that I'd try them out and end up returning them. Nope - these things are great! I have a small treated room, but it's impossible to get real bass extension in here. Getting the bottom end of my mixes right has been a real chore. Not anymore. I just finished mixing and mastering a track for a female artist I met at a party a few months back. I saw her again at a social event a few weeks ago and she mentioned she had a track she wanted on her upcoming album, but her producer just couldn't get the mix right and she asked me if I'd give it a try. Sure... The track is a mix of R&B and HipHop, two genres I don't have much experience with. And HipHop bass and drums are really crucial d own low. I had my mains and my NS10s working, and used the VSX for getting the bass right and trying the mix in different environments; in a club, a car and several other sound systems. When I sent her the first rough, I thought she's have concerns with the bass, but nope, her notes were more focused on where the vocals sat. (She liked them a bit louder than I. Bumped the lead vocals 1.5db without changing the 2 Buss chain settings at all and she was over the moon. Mastered using Ozone and added a bit of loudness and some air and done. The VSX really is a stupid cheap way for a bedroom producer to have a solid monitoring experience. And they saved me $3K as I was thinking of buying some Barefoots. Not anymore. On a less than happy note, I've been going through HELL with my Moog One. I bought it back in October of 2018 out of the first batch they released. There is so much YES about that thing, it could be my desert island synth. The sound and the UI are spectacular. But it's buggy. REALLY buggy. Most of the bugs I could deal with, but it's main flaw (at least my units main flaw) was it's propensity to freeze notes when played over midi and occasionally from the keyboard. I'm not really a hands on keyboard player, and my main use case has always been sequencing from my DAW or my Cirklon. But it never worked right. After the 1.5 firmware upgrade, many of the other bugs were resolved. It finally tracked properly. But it still locked up every minute, so for the last 6 years, it's been an expensive paperweight. Moog had me ship it back east in mid 2022, and they replaced the keyboard. They then said it was fine and sent it back. It wasn't. The hanging notes from the keyboard were gone, but it still couldn't play over midi without hanging voices. I was then told it would take a firmware update to fix my problem - which they confessed was a known issue - but I was also told it would be 8 months to 2 years (maybe!) for the next firmware update. That didn't sit well, nor did I feel any better when Moog was purchased by inMusic. I recently met a couple Moog ex-employees, including a master tech with extensive knowledge of the Moog One history. I will respect the confidentiality of what he told me (which wasn't very confidence inspiring) but he told me that the issue with mine wasn't firmware at all; it was most likely a defective voice assigner board. Over the last 3 weeks, I was trying - unsuccessfully - to reach someone at Moog to discuss this new info, but I couldn't get a return call or an email response. I got pretty heated with my Sweetwater rep who sold me the thing and who has been kept in the loop all these past 5+ frustrating years. Either Sweetwater's call to Moog or the tech's reaching out to them (or both) got someone's attention. I was contacted and asked to ship the unit back to Ashland - on Moog's dime - which I did today. Based on my discussions with a management level employee, I'm hopeful that they will either finally fix mine, or they will replace it with a brand new unit. Fingers crossed! And I have been told that inMusic does plan a firmware update in a few more months that should add some new features and fix some of the other firmware related bugs. I'm probably done buying new synths for a while - unless Behringer releases a desktop module of their OBXa for me to pair up with my OB6. I'd snag one now, but I just don't have room for another full sized keyboard. Studio Upgrade 2020 Well, 2020 was quite a challenge on many levels. I hope you all got through it with a minimum of personal loss. Please get vaccinated as soon as you can! In trying to keep my sanity as we were all locked down, I decided to take some time to make some music of my own. In doing so, I ran headlong into some equipment problems, a just-by-chance opportunity to acquire a piece of equipment I'd been lusting after for since 2017, and the time to put together a new, more efficient, workflow. The 2021 Studio Upgrade had begun. My first stroke of good (great!) luck actually occurred in late 2020 when I found a early version Cirklon sequencer for sale on a modular synth board I follow. (Used to be called Muffwiggler, but the PC Police got involved and it's now called ModWiggler... gah!) Cirklons are - in my humble opinion - the best hardware sequencer ever made. Admittedly the UI takes some learning, but once one wraps one's head around the Aux Events concept, there is very little this box can't do. 64 tracks, 5 Midi Din ports, 6 USB Midi ports, and a Break-out Box with 24 jacks that can be arranged in various configurations of CV and Gate outs, Envelope Generators, LFOs, Midi CC ports, and even CV/Gate inputs to record with. Not surprisingly, the waiting list for new Cirklons has exceeded 3 years. Covid and the current world-wide shortage of ICs hasn't helped either. Finding one used (in decent condition) usually entails paying multiples of the price for a new one. Last December, I found one, with a CVIO and a BOB, for just under what a new one would cost. Work's perfectly. Great communication with the seller. Couldn't have been a better on-line buying experience and made me one very happy synth nerd! I found a nice comfortable position for it between my keyboard and my Raven, and it's now the centerpiece of my studio. ![]() I was sooooo ready to start cranking out some deep house, but then, as luck would have it, technology got in my way... (Ah... the marvels of modern technology) As I finally started recording real time compositions where the Cirklon was sequencing my modular, my Analog RYTM MKII Drum Machine, multiple layers of my Moog One, and several other instruments, all at the same time, I started noticing audio dropouts in my recordings. These are the ultimate scourge of the recording process. After about a month of troubleshooting and tearing out what little hair I have left, I discovered that my trusty (but annoying) Steinberg MR816s were the problem. While they actually have always sounded pretty good, these interfaces have been a real PITA since I acquired them back in 2011. They were advertised as being "zero latency" - meaning a person could record in real time without the normal delay caused by converting analog audio to digital, sending it through the computer, and then back out so you can listen to the audio while recording additional tracks. They were also advertised as being able daisy-chain together, so in my case, two 8x8 interfaces could provide seamless 16x16 ins and outs. However, Steinberg conveniently overlooked (?!) disclosing that they couldn't do both simultaneously. Either they could daisy-chain, or a single unit could monitor with zero latency, but 2 daisy chained units couldn't monitor with zero latency. As you might imagine, this caused me and quite a few other Steinberg customers some serious consternation. When confronted with this misleading advertising, Steinberg initially denied having done it. But advertisements were everywhere, so they then backed down and promised a software fix for the problem. (The old "check's in the mail" trick...) After repeatedly promising a fix was coming soon, a little over 3 years later (coincidentally just beyond the statute of limitations for false advertising...) they announced they couldn't fix the problem. This was infuriating, and if I had been running a pro studio, I'd probably have filed a class action lawsuit before the statute ran. But this is just a hobby, I was really busy at the time, and the number of times I really needed more than 8 ins at one point were pretty minimal, especially after I sold of my percussion rig. So I swallowed Steinberg's BS and kept using them. But I will NEVER buy another piece of Steinberg hardware again. But Steinberg wasn't through with me just yet... The MR816s run through firewire. I had months of headaches getting them to work under Windows 10. Had to swap out the firewire card in my DAW a couple times before I found one that worked reliably. But when Steinberg discontinued the MR816s, they kept providing updated drivers ... until November of 2019. People with Mac's had their interfaces become instantly unusable under the updated OS. We Windows guys were OK, for a while, but the lack of support finally caused them to become unusable as the firewire drivers in Windows wouldn't maintain a solid connection, hence the audio drop-outs. So... after a 10 year run, it was time for a new audio interface. After years of following the audio engineering boards (e.g. Gearslutz, recently renamed by the PC Police as GearSpace...), speaking to other engineers and musicians, and chatting up people at AES and NAMM, I decided that my next audio interface would come from RME. I made this decision based on two main criteria: 1) Their stellar reputation for high quality, great sounding, fully professionally supported products; and , 2) the fact that they have a multi-decades long history of supporting their products - including their discontinued products - with the most rock solid drivers. After my Steinberg experience, this is what I wanted. I chose the UFX+ as a "more than I really need/future proof device and I'm more than happy with it. Sounds great, rock stable, no dropouts, thunderbolt ready, and superb tech support (which I needed when I couldn't get it to work through ne of my USB ports). In addition, their TotalMix software is amazingly versatile and, while I do all my routing in Cubase, it's nice to be able to have multiple configurations set up for other environments. (It really helps in Ableton as well!) (Note, I have a love/hate relationship with Steinberg's Cubase too. But I've tried pretty much every DAW out there and it is still is the most complimentary to my personal workflow. I just wish they'd stop breaking features, or releasing half baked enhancements, do some proper QC before releasing updates, provide some actual tech support that knows more about its products than its users...) An extra added bonus is that the UFX+ has 2 sets of ADAT lightpipe I/Os, so each of my old MR816s can still be used as 8x8 interfaces ported through the UFX+. I now have 28x28 analog I/Os, and have one of the old MR816s mounted in the rear rack on my synth wall, connected over lightpipe, so there's no loss in audio quality from running long TRS snake cables from the back of the room to the console position. Adding all this extra I/O required me to add 2 additional 48 point patch-bays. I now have 2 in a back modular wall rack and 2 in the front DAW rack. But everything is normalled to my studio's main workflow (e.g. OB6 L/R normalled to Patch-Bay 1, positions 1 and 2 which are then normalled out to UFX inputs 1 and 2). If I need to change something, I can patch around the normals and literally have anything patched to anything. I do have to say that designing the patch-bay layouts made my brain hurt more than once. Trying to come up with the most useful configuration took a few weeks, and on one occasion, I woke up in the middle of the night with the realization that I had a better way of doing something I'd already started wiring. For a guy who used to build video edit bays, and has 45 years of signal flow experience, this was a bit depressing... But it's done and it works GREAT! While I was going through this process, I decided to swap out my old midi interface as well. I've been using a MOTU Midi Express 128 for years. It's been pretty solid, but it has had issues dropping off the USB hub and they are known for having issues passing Sysex, which meant that more than once, I've had problems doing program data dumps and updates. I decided to make a change to a more modern interface and chose the iConnectivity MioXL. What really sets this interface apart from the others was its ability to send and receive USB and Din Midi over RTP which cut way down on the number of midi cable runs I needed. In addition, the Cirklon upgrades are going to allow for RTP as well, and when that becomes available, it will greatly enhance the ease of sequencing multiple instruments simultaneously, as well as the tightness of the sync between the instruments. One caveat about iConectivity; they use a program called Auricle to configure the ins and outs. Once you wrap your head around how it works, it's brilliant. But the documentation for it is pretty much useless. I'm clearly a reasonably tech savvy guy, but after reading the "manual" (such that it is) I couldn't figure out how to get things configured no matter how I tried. I needed a tech support guy (who was awesome bye the way) to walk me through it. But once the AHA lightbulb went on, I see how flexible Auricle can really be. Like my audio routing, my midi routing can now - quite literally - go from anything to anything, so I can literally play any instrument - or combination of instruments - from any other instrument or controller in the room. The final piece of the studio redesign was spending a day updating my Raven batch commands. I'm using a Slate Raven MTI2 as a touch screen DAW and VSTi controller. But what really makes this device more than just a touchscreen is Slate's Batch Commander software. Admittedly I've had some issues using it, but many of those I must admit have resulted from my operator error. Combining Batch Commander with Cubase's Track Presets is a seriously powerful system and has made it easy for me to set up specific repeated tasks that get executed from a single button. This makes recording far easier and much faster. And actually fun from time to time... A few examples from simple to more elaborate: I have a button on my Raven Recording Layout named "MIC" which, when I push it, loads my must used mic channel and effects configuration. The vocal mic chain I most often use involves a Slate ML1 mic into my UFX interface feeding a mono audio track with the Slate mic software, some other effects loaded on the track VST inserts, and sends to 2 effects tracks, a delay and a reverb. All my interface inputs are normalled through the patch-bays and named in Cubase. The Mic is normalled to Interface 1, channel 9. A Track Preset has the mic input source assigned to an audio channel with the slate mic software on VST insert 1, a VST channel strip on insert 2, and 2 sends set to named effect tracks. 2 other Track Presets have the effects loaded in my usual initial ways and named to correspond with the aforementioned mic channel sends. The Batch Command first loads the effect track presets (so the mic channel sends can be routed), then loads the mic track preset, names the track "Vocal Mic" and arms the input. I just have to push the "Mic" button on the Raven and it's ready to go. Another example involves my master controller to Cirklon to MiniMoog configuration. The patch sends midi from my Master Keyboard (Novation SL61MkII) to my Cirklon, which sends midi to Cubase, which sends midi out to the MiniMoog. Audio from the MiniMoog comes back into Cubase. The Cirklon uses instrument definitions to send outs on specific channels or through the CV breakout. I then use one track preset to recieve the master keyboard midi and send it to the Cirklon; another to recieve the midi back from the Cirklon on a specific USB port and midi channel number that matches the Cirklon's MiniMoog instrument definition (so I can record the midi if I want to edit later) which then sends the midi out to the MiniMoog. Another track preset creates a mono audio track that is fed from a specified input on my audio interface (which is normalled to the MiniMoog audio out) and which has my specified VST comp/EQ/Efx chain preset for the that track. I programed a Batch Command to load the Track Presets in a specified order, set the audio and midi ins and out accordingly, and arm the respective channels. There's a button on my Raven Recording Layout 1 named "MiniMoog." I press it, count to 10(ish), and its all ready to go. My usual synth guitar setup involves audio in from a Helix over spdif, 6 individual midi channels (1 for each string) from an AX50 guitar to midi converter, all in a folder track, and each sent to its own channel in a 6 patch multi in Omnisphere, with some additional controls from a FCB1010 midi pedalboard routed to both the Axon and Omnishpere. Setting up everything takes quite a bit of time and, to be honest, I'd always miss something and spend the next 1/2 hour trying to figure out what I did wrong... by which time my inspiration to actually play something was long gone. By assigning various pieces of the master patch as Track Presets (e.g., each midi channel from the AX50 is its own separate midi track, input source from AX filtered so it sees just the specific string, routed to a specific layer of the Omnisphere multi with track names and colors, etc.), and then building a Slate Batch Command to load the presets in specific orders and set buss routings as desired, I just hit one button on the Raven named "Guitar Synth" and in a few seconds, the whole patch loads and I can hit record and start playing. Full disclosure, I've lost even more grey hair getting everything to work as intended. I've spent unknown hours with Slate's support, but unlike Steinberg, they are amazing - in a good way, even on weekends! They have even gone so far as to show me how to create my own "custom clicks" that I use constantly. Jamie from Slate is what anyone in artist tech support should aspire to be. Super knowledgeable about his products, able to explain various "outside the box" ways to make things work, and very understanding of rubes like me who sometimes need things explained more than once... Admittedly, I was a bit sad when, after getting comfortable with the Cirklon, I sold my Social Entropy Engine, the sequencer I've been using for the past few years. Engines are really special little sequencers, and are superb for live performance use. I decided to sell mine because, while I expect they will increase in price due to scarcity, I really wanted someone to enjoy using it and I'll be working almost exclusively on the Cirklon from now on. As of today, the system appears fully operational. Now, let's see if I can make anything interesting...
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How this all started...
I've been making music since I was seven and have been fascinated with synthesizers since the age of 13. In the late 70s, my father co-signed my first bank loan which allowed me to buy a Moog modular IIP synthesizer from Dan Wyman at Sound Arts in Los Angeles. It was built in two portable cabinets from a number of older modules they no longer needed - some having been previously owned by Paul Beaver and Dr. Robert A. Moog himself. The IIP is a part of the famous system used by Georgio Moroder to record the Donna Summer disco hits in the late 70s.
I was a professional musician, equipment salesman, synthesizer programmer and recording engineer until I left the music business in the early 80s due to my being disillusioned by the "business" of music. Even after I left the business, I stayed involved as a hobbyist and at one point, I had a full on 16 track studio in my one bedroom apartment. The 1994 Northridge earthquake ended that little venture. In 2000, I discovered modern electronic music at Burning Man. I jumped back into music - semi-professionally - and built a constantly evolving home studio. My current recording system is built around Cubase Pro 11 and a pair of MR816 audio interfaces. I mainly use a large 5U analog modular system including my Moog IIP and another 110 spaces of modules from Synthesizers.com, Free State Effects, Moon Modular, Crysp and STG. I recently acquired a Moog One as my main analog polysynth. While I can play a keyboard, I do most of my actual playing on a guitar that I have augmented to provide polyphonic midi control which I distribute throughout my studio, both to play modern midi-based instruments and to convert to control voltages and gates to play my modular equipment. My main guitars are a highly customized Line-6 Variax JTV69s (the Hexstainocaster), a Fender Stratocaster, and a Godin ACS-Slim. My main sequencers are a Sequentix Cirklon and a Social Entropy Engine. The Variax Hexstainocaster Project
I play the guitar. I also “play” synthesizers, although I’m a lousy keyboard player. My synth of choice is a large (!) Analog modular system built around a vintage Moog IIP I got in the 70s. My main polysynth is a sixteen voice Moog One.
Shortly after I got the Moog, I took my first step into the guitar/synth world. I acquired a 360 Systems Slavedriver which was a monophonic pitch to voltage converter. The system required me to mount a hexaphonic pickup (one individual pickup per string) on a standard guitar which was then sent to the Slavedriver. The Slavedriver would figure out which string was played last, what note was played, and output control voltage and trigger signals to control my synthesizer. It worked.... sort of... The pitch accuracy was marginal and the trigger response was pretty bad as well. And it only played one note at a time. But it was all that I could afford at the time, so I made due.
In 2007, I acquired an Axon AX 50 guitar to midi converter. Unlike the Slavedriver, the AX50 is polyphonic; it can play 6 notes at once (one note per string) and the accuracy - while not perfect - is far better than anything else I’ve played. Around the same time, I acquired my first Line 6 Variax guitar, a 700 - the top of their line at the time. The Variax was played through a PodXT floorboard. The 700 had no normal pickups at all. Rather, it had 6 piezo-electric sensors in the bridge and an on-board modeling system which simulated the sound of many popular guitars; Fenders, Gibsons, Rickenbachers, Gretches, and even a few acoustic 6 and 12 string models. Not 100% perfect recreations, but far good enough for my musical endeavors.
I attached a Roland GK3 pickup system to the Variax which adds volume and patch select in the form of a small control box mounted on the face of the guitar. It includes a hexaphonic pickup which sends individual string outs to a 13 pin jack. Functional, but not terribly elegant. This system has served me very well. But as far as guitar ergonomics go, I’m really more of a “Strat” guy. And I really wanted more versatility and a more elegant solution to the hex driver installation. About 10 years ago, Parker released the Adrian Belew Signature Fly guitar. The flexibility was second to none; in addition to the normal electric guitar stuff, it had a Variax board, a Sustaniac, and a 13 pin hex output to drive a guitar to midi converter. There were 2 problems with me getting one; I really didn’t like the Parker guitar feel; and (more importantly) it was around 10 grand! Ever since then, I’ve wanted to create something that would give me all that capability in a guitar neck/body combo I actually liked. In 2017, I acquired a Line-6 Helix to replace the PodXT which made a significant improvement in my studio flexibility. The Helix also sounds really great and, with its extensive input/output capabilities, it works well as not just a guitar processor, but also as studio effects system. I became aware of the JTV series Variax guitars at NAMM in 2016. As a Strat guy, I was interested in the JTV69s. I was very impressed with the sound of the improved modeling circuitry and the built in magnetic pickups didn’t sound all that bad either. But the neck left me a bit cold. I did think it would make a great base from which I could build my “signature” guitar. So I decided to acquire one, and build it into a guitar I could use in the studio, and live. I was extremely fortunate to acquire a damaged/demo JTV69S from the awesome folks at Line 6. I didn’t think buying a new one made any sense as I was going to hack into it in many many ways and the new instrument warranty would be useless. Plus I had planned to replace the neck and the one they had available suffered from a damaged truss rod. So it was an amazing stroke of luck and saved me quite a bit of scratch.
My first task was to decide on what I wanted it to do. The inevitable answer was - everything! I wanted a performance-oriented guitar from which I could get a deep palate of sounds in addition to being a synth controller. I wanted the Variax modeling output; improved electromagnetic pickup output; a built-in hex driver system; and a Sustaniac, an electromagnetic pickup which doubles as a string exciter which achieves infinite sustain. I also wanted a more traditional (as in thinner) Fender Strat style neck. I wasn’t convinced that I had the electronics chops to get the Variax piezo pickups to drive both the modeling circuitry and a hex driver circuit. But I assumed that I could work through it with a little help here and there. Graphtech makes a product called a Hexpander which adds piezo saddles to conventional guitar bridges in order to drive a guitar to midi converter. I decided to try to use one in conjunction with the pre-existing line 6 piezo bridge saddles. In theory, it should work... My initial plan was simply to “Y” off the piezo outputs to the two circuits. But that quickly proved impossible. My on-line research uncovered several people who had tried this before. There was an apparent impedance and loading mismatch so that the piezos could only drive one circuit or the other. A buffer circuit was needed to isolate the 2 circuits from each other.
My research then turned to the Belew/Parker guitar. It had done what I wanted; driven both a Hexpander and a Variax modeling board from a single set of piezo saddles. I discovered that RMC had provided the hex driver circuit for the Parker and that a young guitar electronics wizard named Axel Ruddich had designed several custom circuits for the guitar. I tried to contact both. Unfortunately, Ruddich passed away some years ago. But Richard McClish from RMC was most approachable and tried to be helpful. RMC actually sold an inexpensive passive buffer circuit that should - in theory - allow me to split the piezo outputs to both circuits. I purchased the Hexpander from GC and a VAR001 board from RMC and set to work. And almost immediately, the challenges started...
First, I built a non-destructive break-out wiring harness so I didn’t have to damage any of the stock Line 6 piezo wiring when connecting it to the buffer circuit. I then attached the Piezo output connector to my breakout - which then sent one side back to the Variax board and the other to the Hexpander. When I fired it up, the hex system worked reasonably well. I don’t really know if it would have been acceptable because I didn’t spend any time calibrating the AX50 for the new driver. This is because the audio output from the modeling software had degraded far below the usability. The RMC board seemed to remove everything below about 200hz and that made everything sound terrible. Back to the drawing board... Plan B was to design and build an active 6 channel pre-amp buffer circuit. But even more problems began to arise. It would use too much power to run off the Variax power buss. And because I’d have to build it on a small breadboard, there simply wasn’t room in the guitar cavity for the extra electronics. At this point, I decided to abandon the joint piezo solution. Roland also sells GK3 pickups with a small circuit board designed to be installed inside the guitar. I found this solution acceptable and far more elegant than hanging a GK3 off the guitar. I decided to install a hex pickup and route the rest of the system into the body. The synth volume and patch selector controls would be mounted on the pick guard along with the LED power light. I decided to replace the stock up and down individual buttons with a single bidirectional switch for patch up/patch down.
I also wanted the hex pickup to match the color of the other guitar pickups. The Roland pickup was black and all the other pickups were white. I found that I could order a white hex pickup from Fender, but rather than doing that, I decided just to paint the Roland pickup to match. I carefully pried open the tabs on the pickup base and removed the outer cover. I painted it white using a few thin coats of some high quality enamel, and then carefully reassembled it. For function and aesthetic reasons, I also wanted to install it with the long end - with the cable outputs - on the bottom as opposed to the top. This involved reversing 6 of the 8 pins on the small connector that plugs into the Roland driver board. Using an Exacto knife, I gently pried open the pin retainer clips on the connector and reversed the string 1-6 cables so they attached 6-1. The ground and shield connector remained in place. I mounted the hexaphonic pickup on the top of the guitar between the bridge and the bridge magnetic pickup. Because the pickup height is relatively low, I cut down the springs used to adjust the height of the pickup and drilled a small hole in the pick guard for the bottom side spring. I also routed a small grove in the body so the pickup cable could run under the pick guard into the main body cavity. From there, it snakes through the existing internal routing into the main board cavity. I also routed some additional areas on the body for the additional controls and the rear battery compartment.
I also wanted to find a better solution for the 13 pin jack. The Roland requires a rather large square route in the side of the body, and it uses a squarish metal mounting plate which I didn’t like for several reasons. Its also not a secure locking jack. Through the VGuitar forum, I learned of a gentleman in the UK named Peter Harris selling a much smaller and more precise pre-wired 13 pin jack he calls Synthlynx. He was extremely responsive to my e-mailed questions and I purchased one from him that arrived in just a few days.
The installation is far easier than the stock Roland, requiring only the drilling of a small 5/8" hole into the side of the guitar body just above where the Variax Cat5 cable plugs in. The Synthlynx cable passed directly into the main board cavity. From there, I had to attach it to the small Roland 7 and 8 pin connectors which plug to the Roland board. This was relatively easy as Peter had provided excellent instructions including photos and the color coded pin-outs for each side. Each lead was soldered and shrink-tubed. It worked perfectly on the first try! The Sustaniac was far less complicated... or so I though. Alan at Maniac Music was very helpful and provided several control options, wiring diagrams and photos of prior Variax installations. I decided on a pretty extensive control package: on/off, drive, harmonic selector and a pick-up splitter.
In theory, it should have been able to run off the Variax power rails, but I couldn’t get sufficient drive; so I route a 9v battery holder into the back of the guitar and power it from its own supply.
The Sustaniac also requires that all the insulation around the pick-ups be removed so it doesn’t pick up and transfer the electromagnetic pulsing throughout the guitar circuits. (This was also one of my considerations in picking the Seymour Duncans as they are incredible at rejecting noise. I was pleasantly surprised how quiet the Variax modeling circuitry was as well.) I did that by scoring the back of the new pick guard and then using an exacto to shave off the aluminum shielding. One easily resolved problem was that in most Sustaniac installations, they provide a 1/4" jack that connects the power when a guitar cord is plugged in. The Variax jack is not compatible and I pretty much always use the Cat 5 cable out (into my Helix floorboard) instead of the 1/4" out. So I decided to install a simple on/off switch so I could turn off the battery when not in use. I also wanted to swap out the stock pickups for a bit hotter more aggressive sound. I have the basic single coil Strat sounds covered by the modeling, and so I decided on stacked humbuckers from Seymour Duncan; the Hot Rails for the bridge and the Classic Stack + in the middle. Each have coil split options which get closer to the more traditional Strat single coil sound, but I was really after a darker more aggressive tone here. The next piece of this puzzle is the neck. I prefer a thinner Strat neck to the stock JTV. There are also some issues with string resonance coming from the area between the nut and tuners on stock JTVs. I decided that with all the other electronics work having been done, I really wanted a great neck on this instrument. I’ve played a number of aftermarket necks and find that the Warmoth necks were really top of the line. Plus they can be ordered to suit a particular player’s preference, with choices of woods, fret size and materials, neck radius, etc. I went with a standard-thin vintage/modern neck, made from quartersawn maple with a rosewood fretboard, mother of pearl dot inlays and a satin nitro finish. I chose a compound radius 22 fret configuration with stainless 6150 fretwire. I also ordered a custom headstock sticker from Rothko and Frost in the UK. The Logo is a 54 style, silver with a black outline.
The Variax neck mounting pocket is identical to most Strats, but the screw holes are slightly different. And I’m not very accomplished at lacquering over a logo, so I had a local guitar luthier do those two pieces of the puzzle for me. I did a trial initial build using the stock white pick guard. I had decided on the placement of all the new controls based on how I thought they would work, but before drilling out the new pick guard, I wanted to see how it all would actually play. Good thing because I found that I had to change a few switch positions for functionality and ergonomics. The new pick guard has to be drilled to accommodate the new components. Remember the old adage, measure twice, drill once! Then the real fun begins. I was super anal about keeping my wire runs as short as possible, making sure all the solder connections were solid and were shrink tubed, and that I zip-tied the wires to keep them under control. I also created 2 loams; one for the stock Variax runs and one for the GK3 components. The pot on the upper left is the Sustaniac drive control. The 6 switches across the bottom are (L>R) Sustaniac on/of; Sustaniac harmonic mix; Sustaniac coil split; middle p/u coil split; bridge p/u coil split; and synth patch up/down. Slightly above and to the left of the 5 way switch is the synth volume control. The synth driver power light is directly below the 5 way switch and the Sustaniac battery on/off switch is at the lower right.
Next, one must snake all the cables back through the front body cavity into the rear cavity. The output module must be removed so there is room to get the wires through. It is crucial that all 3 green master ground wires (bridge ground, pick guard electronics ground, and output module ground) be connected and screwed into the body. These wires are not as robust as I would have hoped and they are easily broken if care is not taken. (Note, the polarized 2 conductor white connector is for the 9 volt battery in the back that powers the Sustaniac circuit.)
Now its time to install the circuit boards. I cannot stress enough that you employ proper static control here. The Variax and GK 3 boards are each susceptible to damage from static electricity.
There are a lot of wires that need to be connected, and routed so as to take up the least amount of room. Initially, all wiring should be moved out of the way to allow for placement of the main board.
Once the main board is in place, it has to be screwed down. Do this gently! Crack this board and its game over... Finally, connect the Roland GK board. I placed it slightly below the Variax piezo connector where it seemed to have the most space.
The all the wires have to be carefully routed and compressed to allow everything to fit. Note that I gently routed several around and under the main board and then back up where necessary.
Do not force anything. If the cover won’t fit, try rerouting the wires again. It is also very important to leave enough space for the piezo bridge output (the 2 grey wires coming through the bridge cavity opening) so it doesn’t pinch. If it does, then the tremolo bridge will not hold tune. Once everything is in place, screw down the rear plate. Then it's just a matter of testing circuits one at a time. This can become very frustrating when trying to track down problems. Stay calm. Don’t rush. Don’t panic....
Once everything is working, screw down the pickguard and install the knobs. The model selector switch has a small circular surround that mounts with what feels like rubber cement. Fortunately there was enough on mine when I removed it that I didn’t have to try to find more. I had a very difficult time finding smaller control knobs that matched the Variax knurled chrome knobs. I finally found some smaller knurled chrome knobs (although they are flat topped as opposed to domed) at C.B. Gitty (part # 51-005-01) I think they match up nicely.
There is a small magnetic “tab” that comes with the Sustaniac. It is held on the pickup my the magnetic field, but it must be moved back and forth on the pickup in order to null the magnetic field at the bridge pickup, otherwise it squeals when the sustainer is turned on. This took a few minutes to dial in, but once its set, its done. Here she is: I am a big fan of using spiral wrap to make custom cables. I have my 13 pin and Variax Cat 5 tied together into a single (semi)manageable run.
A few things of note for anyone thinking of a project like this. One issue is that the JTV69s fingerboard extends beyond the end of the neck. The stock body cavity routing is very tight and there are a lot of electronics mounted on the pick guard. As a result, one has to remove the neck in order to remove the pick guard. This means that any internal adjustments or troubleshooting require neck removal. This is a real PITA and not conducive to optimal long-term neck to body rigidity.
The 5 way pickup selector on the Variax is very different than a stock 5 way switch. It is actually 2 parallel switches. For the magnetic pickups, each of the 3 positions has a + and - solder drilled pad and they are very small and fragile. The Sustaniac install requires it to take a parallel feed of the bridge pickup. There is very little room here and so I highly recommend careful precise soldering and judicious use of shrink tubing. In case you are wondering, YES this WILL void any Line-6 warranty! |